R & D

But it is a long process before a new product taxis to the runway for take-off.

Developing a new product is divided into two phases: the screening phase and the safety assessment phase.

1. Screening phase:

Once a requirements profile has been drawn up for a new product, the raw materials for the basic formulation are carefully selected in line with the requirements of the regulations on cosmetics which our products are subject to. These regulations govern the use of preservatives, colourants and other additives. The number one priority: cosmetics must not be harmful to health. For a long time DEC has increasingly been turning to natural raw materials, which not only impact beneficially on product quality, but which are also kinder to our environment. Just two examples are refined walnut shell powder (as the scrubbing agent in heavy-duty hand cleansers) or the use of virgin oils (e.g. grapeseed oil).

2. Safety assessment phase:

The basic formulation is then put through various tests in the safety assessment phase which follows. In addition to being assessed visually, the product also undergoes chemical and physical tests, which see the stability of the formulation tested at room temperature and at 40° and 4° Celsius for a period of several weeks. For the microbiological test, the preserved product is inoculated with a specific quantity of test germs. The prescribed reduction in the bacterial count of the microorganisms is an indicator of there being sufficient preservative in the product. This test is important for making sure that the product will also be absolutely safe (permissible bacterial count < 100/g, free from pathogenic bacteria) when used under practical conditions. DEC takes its cue in this case from the far higher standards set by the pharmaceutical industry.

There are various test methods which can be used to check the desired qualities of a new product. There is, for instance, the hand washing test, which compares two different products with each other. So called model dirt is used and the people taking part in the test wash their hands under controlled conditions on four consecutive days, with the quantity of the cleanser varying. The degree of residual dirt then indicates the efficacy of the product.

A critical factor for assessing a new formulation is its skin compatibility.
Assessment is carried out using the Duhring chamber test, in which small quantities of the product are put in air impermeable aluminium chambers and then placed on the lower side of the test subjects' forearms. Their skin is then examined every day (for up to 5 days) to see if there any signs of irritations, such as scaling or reddening.

Compatibility between product and the intended type of packaging is scrutinised using packaging tests. This helps to prevent any problems arising in the future, for example with diffusion or not being able to fully empty the tube, bottle etc.

Field trials are conducted at customers' to find out what users think of the product. Product samples and special questionnaires are distributed, asking such questions as "Does the product have a pleasant consistency and fragrance? Is it easy to apply and is it swiftly absorbed into the skin?

Once the product has passed all the tests and there are no problems concerning production, development of a new and top-quality DEC product is complete.